Weekend Events. 2/18-2/21

February 21, 2010

This weekend was my roommate’s “white coat ceremony” at the UVM medical school. His family was coming to town to attend, and this meant that we would be doing a good deal of eating out. On Thursday evening, before his parents were in town, we spent a couple of hours at the Daily Planet in Burlington. We started with a round of beers, then proceeded to order. Having enjoyed a few of the dishes I had in the past, I was somewhat hesitant to try something new. In spite of this feeling, I was confident that there were other options that I would take significant pleasure in trying.

I ordered a first course of smoked ham with a lentil stew and some grilled bread. The ham was shaved, pleasantly salty, but may have benefited from a more significant smoky flavor. The lentils were cooked well, holding on to some of their texture, and the stewing method produced a well developed flavor. The grilled bread, pickles, and mustard provided an excellent vehicle for the ham, allowing the customer to build your own open face sandwich if you chose to do so.

My favorite part of the meal was the New York style cheesecake. It is usually served with a cranberry orange sauce, and on another night I am sure I would have liked that very much. But I was sharing the dessert, and our interest in the doughnuts was piqued by the thyme honey served alongside the doughnuts. So we decided to ask them if we could have the cheesecake served with the honey, and they seemed to happily oblige. The cheesecake was very light with a creamy texture that had me thinking of something between whipped cream and ricotta cheese. The honey provided the necessary sweetness, I found the dish a satisfying way to end the meal.

Friday night, my friend’s parents were around and were kind enough to take me out to dinner at The Kitchen Table Bistro in Richmond, VT. The four of us met my friend’s uncle and cousin. The six of us walked in a few minutes before our reservation and were immediately seated upstairs. The atmosphere throughout the restaurant was comfortable. It remained somewhat intimate in spite of the number of seats due to the fact that there are a number of different rooms. One would not easily forget that they are in Vermont, as the refined yet rustic ambience is reminiscent of an old farmhouse.

But the atmosphere here is something that compliments the food, for without satisfying the customers gustatory desires, the restaurant would not survive. I ended up, thanks to the generous group who had brought me along, trying a number of different dishes.

Among my favorites were the macaroni and cheese, the braied short ribs, and the salmon. The macaroni and cheese is orecchiette pasta with a three cheese sauce made with vermont cream and an herbed breadcrumb crust. The orecchiette was well cooked, not overdone after being baked, the breadcrumbs provided a nice crunch, and the cheese was melted and creamy. Each forkful pulled away from the baking dish reluctantly, strands of cheese clinging to pasta left behind. The short rib dish was a straightforward braise served with a sauce made from the braising liquid and some root vegetables. The short ribs were tender, again only a fork necessary to pull away each bite, and the fat had melted, making the dish fit for a young child in the middle of losing his or her baby teeth. Finally, the salmon served with creamed spinach and a lemon beurre blanc was perfectly cooked. The soft, tender salmon was a joy to ingest, and the sauce provided some necessary and welcome acidity.

Saturday night, and another group of six of us headed out for the evening. My parents would be joining us this time on our trip to Vergennes, VT and The Black Sheep Bistro. The restaurant seemed slightly cramped as there were a few different tables of five or six. The seating area is fairly small which created this feeling. Once we were seated, the cramped feeling disappeared and the restaurant staff made us feel at home. By the end of the meal, I would tend more towards describing the space as cozy. Many dishes here were served in a rustic fashion, and substantial portions were placed in front of all of us.

To start, I was impressed by the short rib stew with garlic crostini and a seared scallop dish. The short ribs were tender and delicious, and the toast was a perfect means by which to soak up the thick, rich stew. The entree that stood out to me was the braised lamb shank. It came out topping white beans, the bone protruding about eight inches above the plate. The shank was cooked until the fat had softened, and the meat seemed in a hurry to be consumed, practically jumping off of the bone. The dish was rich but did not seem too heavy, and the long braising allowed the lamb flavor to fully develop. Along with the main dishes, two large portions of garlic mashed potatoes and french fries were served to the table. The mashed potatoes retained some texture, were not overwhelmed by butter or cream, and held a strong garlic flavor. I am not usually one to be impressed by potato side dishes. I did, however, have a very difficult time stopping myself from continuing to eat these far beyond being full. The french fries were served with ketchup, basil aioli, and a garlic aioli. The fries were thin, crisp, and well seasoned. They were fun to eat, especially with the selection of dips, each distinctly flavored. This trip to Black Sheep Bistro was enjoyable from the atmosphere to the staff to the food, and I plan to return in the near future.

Finally, the weekend of eating out ended with a late Sunday brunch/lunch. My friend’s parents treated us to a meal at Magnolia Bistro in downtown Burlington. It is a certified green restaurant that caters to the significant vegetarian and vegan population of Burlington. I had the Huevos con Diablo. The dish was two fried eggs served on top of polenta and chipotle black beans with salsa and sour cream. Everything came together well and the elements were cooked as I wished, but I feel as though some cheese, perhaps parmigiano reggiano, would have enriched the polenta and the dish as a whole. On a recent trip to New York, I had the famed Clinton St. Baking Company pancakes. On this trip to Magnolia, I tried their oatmeal pancakes. The large pancakes were surprisingly light and fluffy with a touch of texture from the rolled oats added to the batter. These pancakes, in spite of containing whole grain, had a more pleasant texture and overall flavor than the pancakes I enjoyed in New York. And I did enjoy them, but today’s pancakes were more than I had expected to get here, and were surprisingly enjoyed more than those I found in the heart of Manhattan.

Overall, this weekend was both entertaining and enjoyable. I was in good company for nearly all of it, and I was in the presence of good food nonstop. Frankly, I feel a little worn down from it all. Not that I would turn down an invitation to a nice meal right now, but I am certainly going to be able to enjoy a quick and easy meal at home. Perhaps I will enjoy it on the couch, in front of the television.


Daily Planet. Burlington, VT

January 19, 2010

Back in December, Daniel Boulud announced the names of twelve semifinalist chefs who would gather in February to compete to represent the United States at the next Bocuse d’Or culinary competition. This international competition is the World Cup of the culinary world, and I was curious to see the list of chefs that had been chosen by a group consisting of all star chef and restauranteurs Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller. Included in the list of semifinalists I saw chef Michael Clauss, and next to his name, The Daily Planet in Burlington, VT… Shortly after this, I looked it up and saw that he would be doing some test work until January when he would be the new executive chef, introducing a new, locally inspired menu.

I was excited by the prospect of such an acclaimed chef entering the Burlington restaurant scene, and was also excited by the fact that he was looking to keep things simple, fresh, and local. The night before last my mom made a reservation for three. My mom, step-dad, and I met at the restaurant on a Sunday night, finding it surprisingly busy for the end of a Burlington weekend… We waited a few minutes for our table then were led to our seats near the kitchen. The restaurant has new custom made tables that contribute to an interesting overall feel. It was almost surprisingly casual (in a good way) with a bustling bar and one or two small groups being served food on couches as you walked in the door.

The menu does not veer away from this casual feel offering an extensive appetizer selection comprised of a couple of salads, calamari, mussells, and olive cured tuna to go along with entrees like a broiled veal chop, pork loin, a burger, and a couple of vegetarian/vegan options. Their was also a fair number of specials including a pumpkin hummus appetizer that the three of us decided to share. It was served with toasted pita and the pumpkin flavor was there (I half-expected there to be very little “pumpkin”) though not overwhelming. The dish could have had an easier time coming alive had it been seasoned a little more aggresively, but I noticed this much more taking my first bite than I did my last.

To start, I had the olive cured tuna with chikpeas, roasted red pepper, arugula, and vermont qual egg. The portion was larger than I had expected. There was an impressive serving of fresh tasting tuna broken up on top of a lightly dressed chickpea salad. The arugula was fresh. The quail egg was hard boiled, but I had expected/hoped for a touch of bright, runny yolk to add to the dish.

Next I ordered the vegan lasagna. root vegetable curry. Vermont soy tofu. tarragon read the description. I don’t normally go for the vegetarian/vegan options, but I was intrigued. Many chefs offer vegan alternatives, but this dish seemed rather bold. For it to be included on the menu, I thought it must have been something the chef was proud of. Upon receiving the dish, there was very little that I would associate with a curry. This is not a bad thing. In fact, when it arrived, it was a very large portion and was presented in a very appealing way. It looked more like a traditional lasagna, and I was excited to eat. There were two different textures of soy, one resembling mozzarella and the other ricotta, layered with well done vegetables and hefty sheets of al dente pasta. I assume the pasta was eggless (in order that the dish remain vegan), but the color also suggested that it was something other than a plain, white, semolina pasta (maybe spinach pasta???). It was overall very hearty and had excellent flavor, and this flavor was accentuated by the bright red tomato sauce that the sqaure piece of lasagna appeared to be floating in. The sauce was not only bright in color, but in flavor. Overall, I found the dish very successfull, and I hope to have it again soon in spite of the fact that I might like to try other menu items.

My mom and step-dad both ordered and were very happy with a salad appetizer, and my step-dad was impressed by the short rib “sloppy joe.” My mom ordered the pork loin with potato puree and mustard sauce. She did not enjoy the dish, but is also very partial to the way she cooks pork at home. I tried the dish and found that it was okay but nothing to write home about. The flavor of the sauce was decent, and the accompanying potatoes and saurkraut were acceptable, but the pork was fairly dry and underseasoned. In addition to this, two of the three pieces of pork were relatively fatty and probably should not have been served.

Other than this one slip up, I thought that our trip to the slightly reinvented Daily Planet was a positive experience. The tuna and the vegan lasagna were both excellent, and they are both items that I will be back for. I would also like to make it back to ask the chef about his vegan lasagna. I enjoyed the dish very much, and I would like to know what went into creating it.


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